Cosmeceutical Solutions

Over time, our skin matures through a process known as photo-aging. Photo-aging consists of premature aging from sun exposure and smoking and chronological aging that is influenced by our genetics. These changes are manifested as thickening of the top layer or epidermis of the skin, a decrease in oil production, thinning of the deeper layer of skin as a result of the loss of collagen, elastic fibers and fat and thickening of the muscles of facial expression. This leads to a dull complexion, sagging skin and wrinkles. These unwelcome changes occur as a result of the pull of gravity, facial movements and damage over time to DNA, collagen and cell membranes by free radicals.

Fortunately, many new and effective cosmeceutical skin care lines have become available to correct and protect against the effects of photo-aging. These products are designed to reduce the appearance of fine lines, irregular pigmentation and to improve the overall clarity and texture of the skin. All of the currently available cosmetic products utilize one or more of the following agents - Sunscreens, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Anti-oxidants, Retinoids, Human Growth Factors and bleaching agents.

Sunscreens

Regular use of an effective sunscreen is the single most important step to maintain healthy looking skin. Even though our skin loses about 1% of its collagen and elastic tissue per year after the age of 25, it is the effect of ultraviolet light from the sun that causes most of the visible effects of aging skin as well as skin cancer. It is impossible to completely eliminate exposure to UV radiation but it can be minimized by protective clothing and the proper use of an effective sunscreen, one that protects us from both photo-aging UVA rays as well as cancer-causing UVB rays. If your skin is sensitive, use sunscreens that have physical blockers such as micronized zinc oxide and titanium oxide. If you are acne prone, use oil-free or noncomedogenic sunscreens. 

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHAs or fruit acids are present in various foods. The most commonly used AHA is glycolic acid which is derived naturally from sugar cane and can also be synthesized. AHAs are commonly used in low concentrations in cleansers, moisturizers and toners and in higher concentrations in peeling solutions. Their principal effect is to exfoliate the damaged outer layer of the skin and to refine its texture and appearance. AHAs also unclog pores and loosen the barrier between cells to allow effective penetration of other topical agents including moisturizers, retinoids, bleaching agents and antioxidants. AHAs are also outstanding hydrating agents and are thought to stimulate collagen production within the deeper layers of the skin.

Furfuryladenine 

Furfuryladenine is marketed in a moisturizing base as Kinerase. It is an alternative for those who cannot tolerate the acid-based AHA rejuvenation products. It is actually a plant growth hormone that has been shown to improve hydration, texture, discoloration as well as reduce fine wrinkles when used for at least 6 months. It is extremely gentle and may be used as a moisturizer in conjunction with AHAs or other agents or alone for skin rejuvenation especially in those with sensitive skin.

Antioxidants

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is a naturally occurring antioxidant that is also available in skin care products and protects the skin from free radical damage produced by normal aging, pollution and UV radiation from sun exposure. Free radicals result when oxygen is burned in biological systems to provide energy for growth and repair. These reactive molecules can damage normal cellular processes and structure and are a key contributor to the aging process.   While sunscreens remain the mainstay for protecting the skin against UV - induced changes, the addition of topical antioxidants provides added protection against these free radicals. 

Human Growth Factor

Various human growth factors have been incorporated into topical preparations. They are harvested as a by-product of tissue-cultured human skin. HGFs have been shown to reduce the number and depth of wrinkles and fine lines as well as improve skin texture and elasticity.

Vitamin A or Retinoids

Vitamin A acid also known as Retin A was developed over 25 years ago as an acne treatment but has been found to be effective for the prevention and treatment of skin aging. The benefits include improvement in fine wrinkles, uneven pigmentation and rough skin texture and an increase in collagen production leading to healthier skin. These benefits are related to the dose and duration of use with optimum results occurring after a year. Topical retinoids can be very irritating and most patients will initially experience redness, flaking and increased sun sensitivity. Newer formulations including Retin A Micro and Renova utilize improved delivery methods to minimize irritation. Another new retinoid, Tazorac, has been shown to be very effective in the treatment of resistant hyperpigmentation such as melasma.

Bleaching Agents

Hydroquinone is the most commonly used agent for bleaching brown marks, irregular pigment and melasma. It blocks the formation of melanin therefore the pigment will return when the product is discontinued. Aggressive exfoliation and sun protection are necessary for best results. No bleaching cream can quickly improve the appearance of brown spots and results take at least 6 weeks to 3 months.

An ideal skin rejuvenation routine incorporates several products in a complimentary fashion. Cosmeceuticals help prolong and complement other cosmetic rejuvenation procedures.